We got up early today, well at least early for me, but that meant that after breakfast — also called a cup of tea, or coffee in Solo’s case, as we had nothing left to eat except for disgusting protein bars — we still had about an hour left before we would have to make our way back to the railway station to catch the train toward Mo i Rana.
We spent that time in now beautiful weather on the porch of our cabin cleaning our bikes. They had gone through some dusty roads yesterday, so they sure needed our attention if we wanted them to work well for the rest of our ride.
Soon it was time to pack our bags and get ready to get to the railway station to catch our train. This time though I had plotted the route into my GPS and additionally memorized it as good as I could, since there was a chance that we would not have been able to trace back the route we had learned yesterday from that young woman whom we had met, because she added some short cuts to her description that only a local would know and a route in the opposite direction always looks so much different… we couldn’t spend an hour to find the railway station without missing our train. A chance we could not take. Who knew when the next one would have had some space for us and our bikes?
Ensuring we’d follow the official streets was the easiest way of not getting lost in Levanger and actually had us even arrive a little early giving me a chance to go and buy some real food for breakfast — that is if you consider ham and cheese baguette real food — and I found that the little cafe also had some raisin rolls, which I thought might come in handy for lunch, so I bought a few of them as well, stuffing them into my pannier bag and pretty much immediately forgetting about having them.
It was a five hour train ride to get us to Mo i Rana, a train ride through beautiful scenery. Of course we could have covered the distance on our bikes as well, but it would have taken a couple of days. Considering that we only had a limited time frame to finish the entire tour and wanted to go to Denmark as well, there was no chance for us to make it on our bikes in time. Maybe another time.
Our bikes securely stored in the luggage cart and our pannier bags spread over the parcel shelf, we had good space for ourselves and did not block other people’s routes through the train. I quite like that about Norwegian trains, somehow they manage to give people some space between the seats and — most of the time — there is enough space to place your luggage.
The only thing I miss on those trains is the possibility to open a window as the air-conditioning somehow always provides one with oxygen lacking air making you feel sleepy.
At 2:30p.m. we arrived in Mo i Rana, got our bikes out of the train and got ready to get back on them to cycle toward Kilboghavn, about 100 kilometers from Mo i Rana, where we would catch a ferry.
Now we were supposed to first follow the Riksveien 12 (RV 12) before it met the Riksveien 17, the later is also known as Kystriksveien or coastal road as it basically follows the Norwegian Atlantic coast from Namsos almost all the way up to Bodø, so we would spend some time on this road in the next few days.
But first we had to find our route out of Mo i Rana and preferably with a gas station on our way so that we could fill up our tires with some air.
With a basic idea of the direction in which we had to leave, we went on our bikes, soon finding some road signs that pointed out the RV 12, and since these were not bike specific signs this time we dared to trust them again.
Finding our way out of Mo i Rana was much easier than finding our way out of Trondheim. But we soon found that there was too much traffic on the road we were supposed to follow, so we tried a couple of side roads hoping they would go parallel to the RV 12, unfortunately they only did for a short time before going back onto the RV 12. So we had no other chance but to stick to the RV12. Of course by the time we had made it out of Mo i Rana it was also time for rush hour traffic. But the problem was solved after a few more kilometers and the traffic we had to deal with got less until we had the road for ourselves.
The weather was still beautiful like it had been in Levanger earlier in the morning. So we enjoyed the ride.
But since we had started the day’s ride so late we started looking for a place to pitch Solo’s tent after only three hours, also looking out for a place that would sell us some food or possibly even offer us a room to rent. We had seen signs for houses to rent, but when we knocked at the nearest farm’s door no one answered it, so we went on cycling a little further hoping to find something.
Along the road we saw a sign with a map. Hoping it would also indicate a campground or hotel we stopped and searched it. We could not see such a sign. We asked some locals, who were standing nearby, about where to find some sort of restaurant or hotel and they told us the nearest would be in Nesna, some 32 kilometers into the wrong direction from where we wanted to go.
Solo was certain there would be some sort of service somewhere along the road we had to take, but I remembered that I had read about some other bike ride in the region pointing out where to refill the bags with food because there was nothing to come for some kilometers ahead.
We pedaled on, hoping still that we would be able to make it all the way to Kilboghavn, where I knew was a campground. But that campground was still 60 kilometers from where we were, and we started getting tired…
At some point Solo told me he would not be able to go on for much longer so we should start looking for a place to primitive camp. We needed a place away from the street and not on other people’s ground — or at least far enough away from the nearest building — that way the Norwegian Allmansretten would grant us the right to camp there for a night.
But still we hadn’t found a place to buy some food for dinner and our water bottles weren’t holding too much water anymore. Round about 20 kilometers after we had asked for directions we gave up. Solo had spotted a place where he thought setting the tent up would be possible without being seen from the street. So he went and looked if it was suitable. It was a beautiful spot high above the coast and we thought we would be able to climb down the next morning to refill our water bottles. Still we figured to save as much of the water that we had left as we could, so that we would at least be able to have a cup of tea before climbing anywhere.
We pitched tent on the moss, providing us not only with some insulation but making the spot nice and comfortable to sleep on.
Once we were set Solo asked me about the Raisin rolls that I had purchased in the morning…didn’t we still have them? We had a decision to make. Either we could have two raisin rolls each for dinner or have a protein bar. I decided that we would go for the raisin rolls, they would else be dry by the next morning and be as hard to get down as the protein bars, so rather have something good in the evening and potentially skip breakfast…it couldn’t be that far until some sort of service station even if it was only a gas station would turn up the next morning…
You can find more photos from Norway on my website.