The Scandinavian Adventure: Roskilde – Kalundborg

The Scandinavian Adventure: Roskilde – Kalundborg

This post was updated on August 31st, 2018

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Today’s plans included visiting the Vikingeskib Museet (Vikingship Museum) in Roskilde, but since that did not open before 10 a.m., we were able to sleep a little longer and have a rather long breakfast before we started the day.

The Museum is not very large, but it is absolutely worth a visit and you can easily spend some hours studying their exhibit. I had been there before, some years ago, which is why I knew it would be something that would most likely be of some interest for Solo too. And of course we had missed out on the Viking Museum on the Lofoten, so it was our last chance to at least see one Viking Museum during our bike ride.

The Museum houses a couple of replicas of Viking ships, which are frequently used for trips on the nearby Roskildefjord with guests of the museum. Those replicas are built using the same type of tools that were accessible during the Viking era, so not only are they to show people how it is to sail on a Viking boat but their building period was used by the scientists to learn more about the craftsmanship of the Viking era.
In 2007 one of these replicas, the Havhingsten (Sea Stallion), was used to sail from Roskilde to Dublin in Ireland as an archeological excursion.

The museum houses 5 Viking ships, which were all part of a barrier system in the Roskildefjord, near a village called Skuldelev, which made it possible to control the sea routes to Roskilde in the late Viking Age when Roskilde was one of Denmark’s great royal and ecclesiastical cities.
To create the barrier the ships were filled with stones and sunk in Peberrenden on the most direct route to Roskilde.
A thousand years later the ships were excavated and restored and are now part of the Vikingeskib Museet.

Riding toward the west coast of Zealand

We spent almost three hours in the museum, time really passed fast before we made it back to our bikes.
For today’s bike ride we had two options, either going to Odde and take the ferry to Aarhus from there or go to Kalundborg to reach another ferry to Aarhus. The distance is about the same for both routes and they follow the same ways for about half the trip as well, so we did not have to make up our minds right away.
We saw a bicycle path — number 40 — leaving from the museum and, after yesterday’s experiences of missing signs on the cycle path 4 in Greve, we figured to rather use that new path than tracing our way back to the 4 and getting lost due to missing signs again.
But in our case that meant that we soon found ourselves in the forest again, riding once more on forest paths…this time with fewer roots and better rideable than what we had seen on our way to Levanger, but still with luggage it was not an easy ride.
And it wasn’t less adventurous as we had hoped when suddenly my pannier bag came half off my rack and was barely hanging on. Both Solo and I had clearly enough of routes through forests at the time, and we were more than happy to find a paved road after five kilometers through the forest.

We had lost some valuable time due to the ride through the forest, and when our paved route suddenly wanted to lead us onto another gravel path, we both weren’t too fond of it. Solo decided he wouldn’t follow the route on that path. But our map wasn’t detailed enough to show us any other paths which would lead to the same finish. So I grabbed my GPS and enlarged the map on it as good as I could to see if I could find anything that could help us now.
And sure enough, I found the solution if we were to follow the paved road and turn right at the next junction we would eventually cross the bicycle path again. The only difficulty now was, that I had programmed by GPS with the official bike path and not our new invention…our maps did not show the streets well enough either. So we would have to stop here and there again to not lose the right path or at least be able to find back to it rather sooner than later…
Eventually, we found our bike route again and were able to follow the signed route toward Holbæk, where we stopped for a late lunch.

Odde or Kalundborg, where do we go?

But we also discovered that, if we were now to go to Odde — even though we would only have to follow the 40 again and then late find the junction taking us onto the 7 — we would end up with some kilometers of gravel to ride on. The last boat in Odde was to leave at around 8:45 p.m. and it was already 3 p.m. before we even had started having lunch. If we were to follow the route to Odde, it wasn’t very likely that we would make the ferry.
So we decided to turn for Kalundborg and take the ferry to Aarhus from there the next morning. At least we would be able to follow paved roads for the rest of the day, and the chances that we would lose our direction were not as large either.

After lunch, we continued our ride on the new course, but somehow I could not find my rhythm again. I was riding much slower than I usually would have been, and it did not make much sense to me either. I was constantly far behind Solo, I couldn’t even see him…so he had to wait for me several times. In Snertinge we found a gas station and Solo figured to check my tire pressure, and we found, that I had lost a lot of air since our last check, more than what we would have expected. So we refilled my tire and I got myself a cola for filling up my energy reserves as well before we jumped back onto our bikes to make the final kilometers to Kalundborg. At least the roads we were following now were large enough to have road signs pointing out Kalundborg. This time we wouldn’t get lost.
We sure found our way into Kalundborg, even saw the signs toward the harbor, but now we had to find a hotel. I had taken the lead again, trying to find a place where we could stay for the night. Solo got a little anxious behind me, that I was following roads for too long when there was just now hotel coming up when I spotted a sign pointing toward one. It took a little more search than I would have wanted, but we finally found a place to stay. When Solo went inside to see if they had a room for us he learned the devastating news…he came back outside to me and asked me to come in as it would take some time to get our room so we could easily have a short break and something to drink in the hotel’s restaurant, while they were getting everything ready for us. So I grabbed our bags and placed them inside and Solo told me the news of the day he had just been told.
Our plans had failed. Again. There was no longer a ferry from Kalundborg to Aarhus, it had been discontinued some time ago. We couldn’t believe it at first, but it was sure true…
So how would we now get to Aarhus? Could we change our plans again and somehow get over to Jutland after all, or did we have to change them completely and throw away our booked passage on the Frederikshavn ferry to go back to Copenhagen and take the ferry from there?
Questions had to be answered before the next morning. But not before dinner!

If you liked this post, you might also like the other stories from my Scandinavian Adventure:

You can find more photos from Denmark on my website.

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